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My Reaction to a Dermatologist's Retinol Tips

I’m breaking down Dr. Sam Ellis’ retinol advice as an esthetician. If you’ve ever struggled with retinol irritation, wondered about retinol vs. tretinoin, or questioned how to build a retinoid routine for sensitive skin, this is for you.

Retinoids: Why They Fail You (And How to Make Them Work)

Let’s talk about retinoids—the skincare ingredient that promises miracles (smoother skin, fewer breakouts, and fewer wrinkles) but often delivers frustration. You’ve probably heard the horror stories: peeling, redness, and the dreaded "my face feels like it’s falling off" phase. Or maybe you’ve tried retinoids before, only to quit because "they didn’t work." Sound familiar?

Here’s the truth: retinoids aren’t the problem—it’s how we use them. In my video, I break down down why so many people fail with retinoids (spoiler: it’s not your fault) and share hacks to make them actually work for you.

Key Takeaways from the Video

  1. You Were Set Up to Fail

    Many people get a prescription for tretinoin (the gold-standard retinoid) and are told, "This will transform your skin!"—but they’re never taught how to use it. No wonder they end up red, flaky, and swearing off retinoids forever. The fix? Start slow, buffer with moisturizer, and manage expectations. Irritation is normal at first, but it doesn’t mean your skin "hates" retinoids.

  2. Not All Retinoids Are Created Equal

    1. Retinol (over-the-counter): Good for beginners, but weak. Many cosmetic brands use laughably low concentrations (looking at you, 0.08%).

    2. Retinaldehyde: More potent than retinol, gentler than tretinoin, and has antimicrobial benefits (great for acne-prone skin).

    3. Tretinoin / Adapalane (prescription): The big guns. Skip the "starter" retinoids if you’re dealing with acne or hyperpigmentation—go straight for the effective stuff.

  3. Application Matters More Than You Think

    1. Buffering is your friend: Apply retinoids over moisturizer to reduce irritation and help spread the product evenly.

    2. The "dot" techniques: Dot your retinoid across your face before rubbing it in to avoid overloading sensitive areas.

    3. Protect your off-nights: On nights you skip retinoids, prioritize moisturizing products to reinforce the skin's barrier.

The Bottom Line

Retinoids can transform your skin—if you use them right. Ditch the fear, ditch the weak formulas, and focus on smart application and consistency.

Want the full breakdown? Watch my reaction to Dr. Sam Ellis’s retinoid hacks here for deeper dives on:

  1. Why Japanese/Korean retinoids often fall short.

  2. How to layer products to maximize results without irritation.

  3. The one mistake even dermatologists make when recommending retinoids.